Hyderabadi dum-ka-roat time

 

As Muharram approaches, Hyderabadis make a beeline for the standard dum-ka-roat

By the glass door at Subhan Bakery in Hyderabad, the queue on the counter is clearly seen. Every buyer has Subhan’s pink carry bag, some with jumbo-sized ones. As soon as the queue thins, we step in, following the social distancing norm. My curiosity made me hold across the counter casually, to catch a glimpse of what was in these jumbo luggage. To my shock, they have been filled with the Hyderabadi dum-ka-roat.

Dum-ka-roat is a particular cookie, nearly the scale of a tea saucer, made with a mixture of flour, semolina, sugar and nuts — with a touch of nutmeg and copious quantities of ghee. Dum-ka-roat is a particular dish throughout Muharram, the primary month of the Islamic calendar.

Busy counter at Subhan Bakery in Nampally

Busy counter at Subhan Bakery in Nampally
| Photograph Credit score:
Sanjay Borra

Syed Irfan who has been operating Subhan Bakery together with brother Syed Imran, says, “This queue is nothing compared to what we dealt with within the pre-COVID-19 days. Even now, our loyal clients have requested us to ship the dum-ka-roat to their house.”

He claims their recipe for the Hyderabadi dum-ka-roat stays probably the most genuine. Irfan bhai (as he’s fondly addressed) gives me a heat dum-ka-roat, recent from the oven, to style. The skinny crust offers a heat waft of ghee-roasted semolina and nuts. The flavour of nutmeg is gentle, but it lingers on the palate for a couple of minutes after the primary chew. “Dum-ka-roat is a cookie with a non secular significance. So we’ve taken care to not dilute the unique recipe. We consider in a stability of style and substances. If one overpowers the opposite, it would destroy our USP.”

Faraaz Farshori, Hyderabad-based entrepreneur says, “It’s stated the dum-ka-roat was made to final lengthy with wealthy substances to supply vitamin to youngsters and households in the course of the battle of Karbala. Through the years, the scale has shrunk and substances have gone via a slight change relying on what is out there regionally.”

The dum-ka-roat is made in lots of bakeries throughout the town, however most individuals throng to Karachi Bakery and Pista Home aside from ordering or shopping for from Subhan.

Syed Irfan with son Syed Luqman and Syed Rehan

Syed Irfan with son Syed Luqman and Syed Rehan

| Photograph Credit score:
Sanjay Borra

Faraaz mentions informs, “Demand for dum ka-roat peaks on Dus Muharram which marks the ‘Youm-e-Ashoora’. On today the standard ‘’Bibi-ka-Alam’ procession is taken out on an elephant from Bibi–a-Alawa in Dabeerpura to Chaderghat. The seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, is believed to have provided the dum-ka-roat to the ‘Nala-e-Mubarak’ Alam close to Charminar, for the security and well-being of his grandson, Mukarram Jah Bahadur. This practise continues until date and individuals who take a vow for the security of their wards break the dum-ka-roat on the Alam and distribute it to others.”

This 12 months, COVID-19 has affected Muharram at diverse ranges. Mohammed Abdul Majeed proprietor of Pista Home says, “There’s a seen decline in demand for dum-ka-roat as a result of individuals are avoiding visiting one another. Dum-ka-roat is normally exchanged or given to well-wishers throughout Muharram. That has come down this 12 months.”

To make gifting and sharing dum-ka-roats straightforward and secure, in style bakeries have packed them in neat takeaway containers of 1 kilogram and 500 grams. Costs begin at ₹ 330 for 500 grams. They are often saved upto three months.

One also can benefit from the dum-ka-roat with chai at Niloufer, Nimrah and Pink Rose cafes within the metropolis.

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